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Things to Do in Crete

Things to Do in Crete

Crete is large enough to be a holiday on its own. Two hundred and sixty kilometres end to end, with mountains that hold snow into May, Europe's longest gorge, Minoan palaces older than the Parthenon, and a food culture distinct enough that Cretans will tell you it is not really Greek cooking at all.

The Minoan sites

Knossos, just outside Heraklion, is the largest Bronze Age site in Greece and the most controversial — Arthur Evans's concrete reconstructions divide archaeologists and make the place far easier for visitors to read. Go early, and pair it with the Heraklion Archaeological Museum, which holds the actual frescoes and the Phaistos Disc. Phaistos and Malia are quieter and unreconstructed.

Chania and Rethymno

Chania is the most beautiful town on the island — a Venetian harbour, a lighthouse, Ottoman and Jewish quarters and a covered market. Rethymno is a smaller version with a Venetian fortress. Both make far better bases than Heraklion.

The Samaria Gorge and the mountains

Sixteen kilometres downhill through a gorge that narrows to three metres at the Iron Gates, finishing at a village on the Libyan Sea where a boat takes you out. It takes five to seven hours and is genuinely demanding. The season runs roughly May to October. Shorter alternatives — Imbros, Agia Irini — give you most of the scenery in a third of the time.

The beaches

Elafonissi and Balos are the famous two, both pink-tinged and both a long drive on rough road at the western end. Preveli has a palm gorge running down to the sea. The south coast around Loutro and Agia Roumeli is reachable mainly by boat, which keeps it quiet.

Eating

Cretan food is its own thing — dakos, snails, wild greens, raki poured at the end of every meal whether you asked or not, and some of the best olive oil in the world. The mountain villages inland are where to eat, not the beach strips.

Distances on Crete are real and the roads through the mountains are slow. Hire a car, base yourself in two places rather than one, and allow at least five days — a week is better.

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