Machu Picchu at dawn, the valley below filled with cloud and the citadel above it. A canyon twice the depth of the Grand Canyon, where Andean condors soar at eye level from the rim. A floating city on the world's highest navigable lake, where the Uros build their islands from reeds the way their ancestors did. Peru holds three worlds — the Andes, the Amazon and the coast — and each is a trip of its own.
Peru sits on the Pacific coast of South America — 34 million people, bordered by Ecuador, Colombia, Brazil, Bolivia and Chile. It holds the Amazon's headwaters, the world's highest navigable lake, and the largest surviving body of Inca architecture on Earth.
It concentrates the continent's most iconic sites in a geography that makes them genuinely hard to reach — which is part of why they're worth reaching. Machu Picchu, the 15th-century citadel at 2,430m above the Urubamba River, takes either a 4-day trek over a 4,215m pass or a train-and-bus journey through a narrowing canyon. Both are worthwhile; neither is casual.
The Andes — Cusco, the Sacred Valley, Machu Picchu and the Inca Trail, plus the Rainbow Mountain (Vinicunca), the Colca Canyon and Lake Titicaca.
The Amazon — Madre de Dios, the most accessible biodiverse jungle, reached by a 45-minute flight from Cusco to Puerto Maldonado and the Tambopata reserve.
The coast — Lima, one of the great food cities of the Southern Hemisphere, birthplace of ceviche, home to the superb Larco Museum and the cliff-top Miraflores and Barranco districts.
Each of Peru's six defining experiences is a different world — and together they make the country irreplaceable on any South America itinerary.
Machu Picchu is a 15th-century Inca royal estate, built under Pachacuti — the ninth Sapa Inca, the ruler who turned a regional chiefdom into a continental empire from 1438. It sits at 2,430m on a ridge in the Eastern Andes, 80km northwest of Cusco, above the Urubamba gorge.
The Spanish never found it. The citadel was abandoned after the conquest and unknown to the outside world until the local farmer Melchor Arteaga led the Yale historian Hiram Bingham to it on 24 July 1911. Its famous masonry — polygonal stones cut to interlock without mortar — flexes slightly in earthquakes and resettles, which is why it has stood for 600 years in a seismic zone.
The best visit: take the first entry slot (6am or 7am), before the valley cloud burns off. Huayna Picchu, the peak in the classic photo, is a steep 45–60 minute climb with chain handrails (about 200 tickets a day) and gives the only elevated view of the full citadel reachable on foot.
Cusco (Qosqo, "the navel of the world") was the capital of the Inca Empire from about 1438 until the Spanish capture in 1533. It's the best base in Peru and one of the most history-dense cities in South America.
Its Inca foundations sit beneath the colonial city. At the Qoricancha, the Temple of the Sun, the Spanish built a convent on Inca walls; a 1950 earthquake wrecked the colonial structure but left the Inca stonework standing — the two traditions are visible in a single wall.
The Sacred Valley, 15km north and lower than Cusco, was the empire's farming heartland: Pisac (terraced citadel and a famous Sunday market), Moray (concentric circular terraces with a 15°C gradient top to bottom, used as an agricultural laboratory), the Maras salt pans (3,000+ pools fed by one spring, worked since before the Inca), and Ollantaytambo — the only town where people still live within the original Inca street grid, with the fortress where Manco Inca beat Hernando Pizarro's army in 1536.
The Colca Canyon, 160km northwest of Arequipa, is about 3,400m deep — one of the deepest in the world, and roughly twice the depth of the Grand Canyon. Its walls read like a cross-section of the Andes' formation.
It offers one of the most reliable wildlife encounters in South America: the Andean condor, with a wingspan of about 3.2m and the largest flying bird in the Western Hemisphere. Condors ride the morning thermal that rises off the sunlit canyon floor, passing at eye level — often within 10–20m — at the Cruz del Cóndor lookout on the rim.
Timing: be at Cruz del Cóndor by 8–9am; the birds usually soar from about 9–10am, often 3–12 at once, close enough to see the spread feather-tips. For the canyon's true scale, the 2-day descent to a canyon-floor village and pre-dawn climb back out is the real experience — the 1,000m ascent is why most visitors stay on the rim.
Lake Titicaca sits at 3,812m, covers 8,372 km² and is shared between Peru and Bolivia — the world's highest commercially navigable lake and, by Inca cosmology, the birthplace of their civilisation. Visitors expecting a high pond find an almost oceanic horizon and a blue you don't see at lower altitude.
The Uros Floating Islands in the bay of Puno are built and constantly renewed from totora reeds; fresh bundles are added as the lower layers rot. The Uros have lived this way since before the Inca — originally a defensive move, since a village that floats can be relocated.
Isla Taquile, 45km out, is home to about 2,000 Quechua-speaking Taquileños whose textile tradition is recognised by UNESCO. The men knit constantly, and knitting quality even signals marriage eligibility. An overnight homestay with a Taquile or Amantaní family is the most immersive experience on the lake.
The Amazon basin covers about 60% of Peru, and the river's headwaters rise in the Peruvian Andes. It's reached as a 3–5 day extension from Cusco — a 45-minute flight to Puerto Maldonado in Madre de Dios.
The Tambopata National Reserve protects 274,690 hectares of primary rainforest, among the most biodiverse on Earth — 600+ bird species and over 1,000 butterfly species. Its lodges provide the structured access that makes meaningful wildlife watching possible, rather than walking into dense jungle and seeing little.
The Collpa de Guacamayos macaw clay lick draws hundreds of scarlet macaws and other parrots each morning (roughly 6–8am) to eat mineral-rich clay; sitting in a blind as 200–300 birds crowd the bank is overwhelming. A guided night walk with UV light reveals a different forest — fluorescent scorpions, tree frogs, caiman eyes in the creek.
Lima (about 11 million people, on the Pacific at sea level) is the city Australians most consistently underrate — allowing one transit day when it deserves two or three. It is regularly ranked among the world's best food cities.
Ceviche — raw fish cured in citrus leche de tigre — originated here; La Mar in Miraflores is a benchmark version. Modern Novoandina cooking pairs Andean ingredients with contemporary technique; restaurants such as Central build tasting menus around the altitude each ingredient grows at.
The Museo Larco holds one of the world's finest pre-Columbian gold, silver and ceramics collections — some 45,000 artefacts across 5,000 years (the frankly explicit ceramics gallery is the exhibit visitors least expect). The Barranco district adds the Bridge of Sighs, a Pacific overlook, galleries and bars.
Vinicunca, the Rainbow Mountain, is 5,200m above sea level — 3–4 hours by road from Cusco, then a 2-hour hike. Its striped mineral bands (iron oxides for red and orange, chlorite for green, limonite for yellow) became visible only after its permanent snow cover melted in the 2010s as the climate warmed.
At 5,200m this is the highest most casual visitors will ever climb, and acute mountain sickness is a real risk — don't attempt it without at least two full days acclimatising in Cusco first. It's busy, too: 1,500–2,000 visitors on a peak summer day. Leave Cusco around 4am to reach the trailhead before 7am, finishing the climb before the crowd peaks and before afternoon cloud hides the colours. The horse option from the trailhead (about USD$15) isn't cheating — conserving energy at 5,200m is simply sensible. The colour is real and extraordinary. So is the altitude.
The altitude profile of a Peru itinerary shapes everything else. Get the acclimatisation sequence right and the rest follows.
Altitude sickness (soroche) affects most visitors to Cusco (3,400m) to some degree. The mild form — headache, fatigue, nausea, broken sleep — hits roughly 75–80% of people on their first day. That's normal.
At 3,400m the air holds about two-thirds of the oxygen it does at sea level. Your body compensates by breathing faster and, over weeks, making more red blood cells — too slow to help a short trip. The mild symptoms usually ease within 24–48 hours if you rest, hydrate and don't climb higher until they pass.
The dangerous forms — HAPE (lungs) and HACE (brain) — are rare but need immediate descent. Warning signs that mean descend now: confusion, trouble walking straight, loss of coordination, a severe headache that ibuprofen won't touch, or a cough with pink or bloody phlegm. These are emergencies. Most Cusco hotels keep oxygen and are used to managing AMS.
The single most important structural choice in a Peru trip is the altitude sequence. Arrive in Lima first (sea level) for a day or two to recover from the flight, then fly to Cusco.
Days 1–2 in Cusco: rest, hydrate (3–4 litres a day), coca tea, no alcohol, light walking only. Make the Sacred Valley (about 2,800m, lower than Cusco) your first day trip — descending to acclimatise, then returning. Days 3–4: longer days become comfortable — the Cusco city tour, Pisac, Ollantaytambo.
Day 5 onward: the Inca Trail starts at Piscacucho (2,720m) and climbs to 4,215m on day two. Two full days at Cusco altitude beforehand is the minimum, not an option. Dropping to Machu Picchu (2,430m) on the final day usually feels noticeably easier — the air is about 25% richer than at Cusco. Acetazolamide (Diamox): 125–250mg twice daily from 24 hours before ascent — discuss with your GP first.
From the 4-day classic trail over Dead Woman's Pass to the Salkantay alternative — route choice is the most consequential decision in a Peru trekking itinerary.
The 43km Inca Trail runs from km 82 on the Cusco railway to the Sun Gate (Inti Punku) above Machu Picchu — the most famous multi-day trek in South America, and the only one that reaches a UNESCO site through its original access point. It makes the arrival a different experience from the bus-and-train route.
Day 1 (12km): a gentle introduction through the Sacred Valley, with the Patallacta ruins in view. Day 2 (16km): the hardest day — the climb to Dead Woman's Pass (Warmiwañusca, 4,215m), the high point, then down and over a second pass. Day 3 (11km): the most scenic — cloud forest and orchids, the ruins of Sayacmarca and Phuyupatamarca, and Wiñay Wayna, the finest site on the trail. Day 4 (4km): a 3:30am start to reach the Sun Gate at dawn, with the first view of Machu Picchu above the valley cloud.
The 74km Salkantay Trek is the main alternative to the Inca Trail — no permit required, higher passes and more dramatic mountain scenery. It's named for Nevado Salkantay (6,271m), one of the most revered apu (mountain deities) in Andean belief, and crosses five ecological zones from high puna grassland to subtropical jungle.
The Salkantay Pass (4,600m) is the high point — 385m above Dead Woman's Pass — usually crossed mid-morning on day two when the sky is clearest and the glacier is at eye level. A day-one side trip reaches the turquoise Humantay glacial lake (4,200m, about 2 hours return).
The route ends through coffee and fruit farms in the Río Santa Teresa valley, then an 8km walk along the railway line into Aguas Calientes — howler monkeys in the cloud forest above the track.
The 2-day Inca Trail starts at km 104 instead of km 82, skipping days 1 and 2 of the classic route. A SERNANP permit is still required, but availability is far better than the full trail.
It includes the classic trail's best day — the cloud forest, the orchid belt, Wiñay Wayna (the most striking ruin on the route) and the Sun Gate arrival. The trade-off is missing Dead Woman's Pass and the gentle first section. For anyone short on time or fitness who still wants to arrive through Inti Punku rather than by bus, it delivers exactly the day 3–4 experience.
An overnight at Wiñay Wayna lets you walk to the ruins late in the afternoon, after the day hikers have gone — the site almost to yourself. The 3:30am Sun Gate start is the same as the classic trail's final day.
The 500-person daily cap includes guides, cooks and porters, so a group of 8 trekkers typically travels with 2 guides, a cook and 8–12 porters carrying camp, food and personal bags. A porter's legal carrying limit is 25kg including their own gear (about 20kg of cargo). Peru's 2001 Porters' Rights Law sets minimum wages, maximum loads and the provision of food, shelter and clothing — but not every operator complies to the same standard.
When you book, ask whether the operator belongs to the Asociación de Operadores de Turismo del Cusco (AOTC) and what they pay porters above the minimum. The difference between a compliant and a non-compliant operator is often AUD$80–150 per person — and it affects the livelihood of the people who make the trek possible. Cooee Tours works only with operators that meet or exceed the AOTC standards.
The Inca Empire lasted roughly 95 years — from Pachacuti's expansion of the Cusco chiefdom in 1438 to Pizarro's capture of Atahualpa in 1532 — and in that time it built Machu Picchu, Sacsayhuamán, Ollantaytambo and some 40,000km of road from Ecuador to Chile.
The Spanish arrived with 168 soldiers, horses and smallpox — none of which the Inca had met — captured the Sapa Inca, took a ransom of one room of gold and two of silver, executed him anyway, and dismantled the empire in three years. The Inca stonework that survived did so because the Spanish found it too sound to demolish. They built their churches on top of it instead.
Peru is the country where the gap between what you know and what you feel is at its widest. No photograph prepares you for the altitude, the scale, the precision or the silence in the valley before the buses arrive. The preparation — the acclimatisation, the permit booking, the 4am start — is exactly what makes the experience more than a picture.
From a Cusco and Machu Picchu week to the full 14-day Peru circuit with the Inca Trail, Amazon and Colca Canyon — all bookable through Cooee Tours.
The essential Peru circuit — Cusco, the Sacred Valley and Machu Picchu — structured for correct altitude acclimatisation.
Days 1–2 are gentle Cusco acclimatisation (San Blas, the Qoricancha, San Pedro market, the Plaza de Armas), with the guide watching for AMS. Day 3 is the Sacred Valley (Pisac, Maras, Moray, Ollantaytambo) at the valley's lower altitude. Day 4 takes the Vistadome train through the Urubamba gorge to Aguas Calientes. Day 5 is Machu Picchu on the first slot, with the optional Huayna Picchu climb if pre-booked. Days 6–7 return to Cusco and fly to Lima.
The classic 43km permitted route from km 82 to Machu Picchu via Dead Woman's Pass (4,215m) and the Sun Gate — arriving through the citadel's original 15th-century access point at dawn.
It's sold with two mandatory pre-trail nights in Cusco for acclimatisation. Day 2 (Dead Woman's Pass) is the hardest; an AOTC-certified guide and porter team make the difference. Day 3 is the most beautiful, and day 4 the 3:30am push to the Sun Gate. The day-4 Machu Picchu entry ticket is separate from the trail permit — Cooee Tours books both at once.
The Tambopata extension that most first-timers don't plan and most returning visitors come back for. Fly Cusco–Puerto Maldonado (45 minutes), watching the Andes give way to unbroken green, then take the boat upriver to the lodge.
The river itself is a wildlife corridor — caimans on the banks, and a chance at the critically endangered giant river otter. Days centre on the dawn macaw clay lick (200–300 birds), the canopy walk and night canoe for caiman. Day 4 is the return river journey and flight to Lima.
The condor encounter that justifies the drive across the altiplano. Leave Arequipa at 7am, passing wild vicuñas and the high Patapampa viewpoint, and overnight in Chivay.
Day 2 reaches Cruz del Cóndor by about 8:30am for the morning thermal — condors at eye level from roughly 9–10am, wingspans set against the canyon wall — followed by a short rim walk above the valley far below, and the Yanque hot springs on the way back.
The Uros Floating Islands and an overnight homestay on Taquile. Leave Puno at 8am by launch (SPF50+ essential at 3,812m) for the Uros Islands, where families explain the reed-island life on their own terms, then continue to Taquile.
Taquile has no vehicles — everything is on foot. After a communal trout lunch you stay overnight with a local family: a home-cooked dinner, the evening's textile work, and a southern star field at altitude. Day 2 is a morning island walk before the return to Puno.
The classic alternative for those who can't get permits or want a higher, longer, more demanding route. No permit required. 74km across five ecosystems.
Highlights are the turquoise Humantay glacial lake (day-1 side trip) and the Salkantay Pass (4,600m), crossed at sunrise with the glacier at eye level. The route then loses 3,000m over three days — grassland to cloud forest to jungle — through coffee farms and a final railway-line walk into Aguas Calientes.
The Peru experience most Australians skip and regret. Day 1 is the Miraflores Malecón above the Pacific, with dinner at one of Lima's landmark restaurants. Day 2 pairs the Museo Larco (allow 3 hours) with ceviche at La Mar, the Barranco district, and a tasting menu at Central (reserve weeks ahead).
Day 3 visits Pachacamac, the pre-Inca coastal sanctuary that drew pilgrims for 2,000 years, before the evening flight to Cusco.
The 5,200m summit, reachable only after two full days of Cusco acclimatisation. Leave Cusco at 4am for the 3.5-hour drive to the Cusipata trailhead, then climb about 8km return (2–2.5 hours up, 600m gain). A horse is available at the trailhead for the first stretch.
The summit gives a 180-degree view over the Ausangate massif and the mineral-banded face, with the guide explaining the geology. An optional 30-minute detour drops to the Red Valley (Valle Rojo) next door, whose vermillion soil contrasts with the rainbow ridge — the best photo is from the valley floor looking back at both, and most groups miss it. Return to Cusco by early evening.
The complete 14-day circuit — Lima, Cusco, the Sacred Valley, the Classic Inca Trail, Machu Picchu, the Colca Canyon, Lake Titicaca and the Amazon.
It opens in Lima (Museo Larco, La Mar, Central), moves to Cusco for acclimatisation and the Sacred Valley, then the 4-day Inca Trail to Machu Picchu, the Tambopata Amazon (clay lick, otters, night walk), and finishes at the Colca Canyon for the morning condors. All accommodation, four internal flights, guided days, park fees and permits are included.
Sydney or Melbourne to Lima (LIM) via Los Angeles is about 16–18 hours. LATAM via LAX is the most reliable, since it controls the Lima and Cusco legs on one ticket; American Airlines and Air New Zealand codeshares are alternatives.
From Lima, LATAM, Sky and Star fly to Cusco (CUZ) in 1hr 15min. Book the morning flight — afternoon services often circle or divert to Juliaca when Andean cloud closes in.
Book in this order: (1) Inca Trail permits — the fixed constraint, secured the October before travel; (2) Machu Picchu entry tickets, booked alongside the permit; (3) Huayna Picchu tickets, at the same time; (4) the Vistadome train (if not trekking), 4–8 weeks ahead; (5) Amazon lodge and domestic flights, 6–8 weeks ahead; (6) Lima restaurant reservations.
Cooee Tours manages the permit and ticket steps for you.
Before you go, ask your GP about acetazolamide (Diamox) — usually 125–250mg twice daily from 24 hours before ascent. It's a diuretic, so drink more water. Avoid alcohol for the first 48 hours at altitude.
Ibuprofen (not paracetamol) works best for altitude headache. A headache that doesn't ease within 2 hours is the cue to seek help. Cusco hotels keep oxygen, and there are clinics experienced with AMS.
Peru's cuisine is the most internationally recognised in South America. Try ceviche (a lunch dish), lomo saltado (the reliable wok-fried beef), ají de gallina (a creamy chicken stew) and, for the curious, cuy (guinea pig) — a cultural experience more than a recommendation.
The potato was domesticated here some 7,000 years ago; the Andes hold 3,000+ varieties, so a purple potato at dinner is simply correct.
Three structures — from the 7-day Cusco and Machu Picchu circuit to the full 14-day grand traverse.
The questions Australian travellers ask most before booking Peru.
No. Australian passport holders don't need a visa for tourism. You're given a free entry stamp on arrival for a stay of up to 90 days (within a 180-day period), which generally cannot be extended — so plan your itinerary to fit within it. There's no ETA or online pre-registration.
Your passport must be valid for at least six months from your arrival date, and you may be asked to show proof of onward or return travel. Entry rules can change, so always confirm the current position on the Australian Government's Smartraveller website before you travel.
The Classic Inca Trail is capped at 500 people per day including guides and porters (around 200 trekkers). Permits are issued by SERNANP, and the calendar for the following year's season opens in early October. Peak-season permits — June, July, August and September — sell out within days. November to May dates also go quickly but may have availability 3–4 months out. The trail closes every February for maintenance.
The practical takeaway: to trek in peak season, have your permits confirmed roughly 12 months before you travel. Cooee Tours watches the SERNANP opening date and books permits the day the calendar opens.
Altitude sickness (soroche) affects most visitors to Cusco (3,400m) to some degree on arrival — headache, fatigue, nausea or poor sleep — and usually eases within 24–48 hours with rest and hydration.
To prepare: arrive in Lima first to recover from the flight; take a morning flight to Cusco; on arrival rest, drink 3–4 litres of water, skip alcohol for 48 hours and try coca tea; don't trek for the first two full days, using the Sacred Valley (2,800m) as your first active day; and ask your GP about acetazolamide (Diamox) before you go. Seek medical help or descend for confusion, loss of coordination, a severe headache that ibuprofen won't touch, or a cough with pink or bloody phlegm.
The Classic Inca Trail (43km, 4 days, permit required) follows the original Inca stone path from km 82 to Machu Picchu via Dead Woman's Pass (4,215m) and the Sun Gate. Its value is the dawn arrival through the citadel's original access point; its constraint is the permit system, which sells out the October before.
The Salkantay Trek (74km, 5 days, no permit) passes beneath Nevado Salkantay via a higher pass (4,600m), crosses five ecological zones, and reaches Aguas Calientes along the railway line — with the Machu Picchu visit by bus rather than through the Sun Gate. It offers more dramatic mountain scenery and a bigger altitude range, and is the standard fallback when Inca Trail permits are gone.