Russell & Paihia
The twin towns of the bay each have their own character. Paihia is the lively base, its wharf the launching point for cruises, sailing and the Russell ferry. Across the water, Russell (Kororāreka) is quieter and steeped in story — New Zealand's first sea port and briefly its first capital, once notorious, now one of the loveliest historic villages in the country. Here's how to enjoy both.
Paihia — the hub of the bay
Paihia is where most visits begin. From its wharf, island cruises, dolphin trips and sailing days set out, and the passenger ferry to Russell runs all day. The town has the bay's widest choice of accommodation and dining, a pretty waterfront, and the Waitangi Treaty Grounds just to the north. It's central, walkable and easy. See our Northland day trip.
Russell — Kororāreka
A short ferry ride across the water, Russell (Kororāreka) is a jewel of early New Zealand history. See Christ Church (1836), the country's oldest surviving church, still marked by musket balls; the preserved Pompallier Mission printery; and climb Flagstaff Hill, where Hōne Heke felled the flagstaff in the 1840s. Its once-lawless waterfront — the old "hell hole of the Pacific" — is now serene and beautiful. See our things to do guide.
The ferry & the harbour
Half the pleasure is the crossing. The passenger ferry between Paihia and Russell — about 15 minutes each way — is a scenic little voyage in its own right, and a car ferry runs from Opua to Okiato for those driving. Time a trip for late afternoon and you'll catch the harbour at its golden best. See our getting around guide.
Russell & Paihia: your questions
Paihia is the main tourist base — a lively little town on the mainland with the wharf where cruises and ferries depart, plus most of the accommodation and restaurants. Russell (Kororāreka), a short passenger-ferry ride across the water, is quieter, historic and charming, New Zealand's first sea port and briefly its first capital. Many visitors stay in Paihia and day-trip to Russell. See our where to stay guide.
The easiest way is the frequent passenger ferry from Paihia wharf, a scenic ride of about 15 minutes straight into Russell. If you're driving, a car ferry runs from Opua (just south of Paihia) to Okiato, near Russell. Foot passengers rarely need a car in Russell itself, as it's small and walkable. See our getting around guide.
Russell is rich in history. Visit Christ Church (1836), New Zealand's oldest surviving church, still bearing musket-ball marks; the Pompallier Mission, a beautifully preserved 1840s printery and tannery; and climb Flagstaff Hill (Maiki), where the chief Hōne Heke famously felled the flagstaff. Stroll the waterfront, once the "hell hole of the Pacific", now serene. See our things to do guide.
Effectively yes — nearby Okiato (Old Russell) served as New Zealand's first capital in 1840–41, before the seat of government moved to Auckland. The town of Kororāreka (today's Russell) was the country's first permanent European settlement and its busy, lawless early sea port. That layered history is part of Russell's charm today. See our Waitangi guide.
Excellent — Paihia is the natural hub. Cruises, sailing trips, dolphin tours and the Russell ferry all leave from its wharf; the Waitangi Treaty Grounds are a short stroll or drive away; and it has the widest choice of places to stay and eat. It's central, walkable and well set up for visitors. See our Northland day trip.