Cooee Tours
Monks on the alms round at dawn in Luang Prabang, Laos

Things to Do in Laos

The old capital, the rivers, the karst, the quiet capital and the south — region by region, at the slowest pace in Asia.

Laos is the slowest country in the region and, for many, the favourite. This page groups it by region and interest so you can see what a week or ten days actually hold, then points you to the tours page.

Luang Prabang

The old royal capital on the Mekong, a World Heritage town of thirty-three gilded temples and French colonial houses on a peninsula between two rivers, and the reason most people come. The alms round at dawn, when hundreds of monks collect rice from the town in silence, watched from across the street without a flash; Wat Xieng Thong, the finest temple; the Royal Palace museum; Mount Phousi at sunset for the river; the morning market and the night market; the Kuang Si waterfalls, 30 km out, turquoise tiers with a bear sanctuary at the gate; the Pak Ou caves’ thousands of Buddhas by boat up the Mekong; the Living Land rice farm for a morning in the paddies; and a sunset on the river from a slow boat. Three nights minimum, and it is the town people extend. Now two hours from Vientiane on the Laos–China railway.

Monks collecting alms at dawn in Luang Prabang
Luang Prabang’s alms round at dawn, watched quietly from across the street.

The north: Nong Khiaw, Muang Ngoi and the Nam Ou

Three hours north of Luang Prabang by road, Nong Khiaw is the river town in the karsts where the Nam Ou runs between cliffs, and a boat upstream to Muang Ngoi reaches a village without a road: trekking to hill-tribe villages, the viewpoint climbs, kayaking, and the slowest days in a slow country. Two nights for the party that wants Laos beyond the temples. Further north, Luang Namtha and the Nam Ha protected area for the treks and the Akha villages; Phongsali for the tea and the far frontier.

The Nam Ou river valley and karsts at Nong Khiaw
Nong Khiaw: the river town in the karsts, three hours north of Luang Prabang.

Vang Vieng

The karst valley on the Nam Song, once the backpacker party town and now a landscape destination: the limestone towers at dawn from a hot-air balloon, the Blue Lagoons, the caves (Tham Chang, Tham Phu Kham), kayaking down the river, the viewpoint climbs at Nam Xay and Pha Ngern, and the rice fields by bicycle. Ninety minutes from Luang Prabang or Vientiane on the railway. One or two nights; a landscape stop rather than a town.

Limestone karsts above the Nam Song river at Vang Vieng
Vang Vieng’s karst, from a kayak or a balloon rather than the bars.

Vientiane

The quietest capital in South-East Asia, on the Mekong facing Thailand: Pha That Luang, the golden national stupa; Wat Sisaket’s thousands of Buddhas; Patuxai, the concrete arch; the COPE centre, which explains the unexploded-ordnance legacy that still shapes the country; the riverside night market and the sunset promenade; the Buddha Park’s concrete sculptures out of town; and a French-Lao food scene with the best bread in the region. One or two nights, and the railway’s southern terminus.

The golden Pha That Luang stupa in Vientiane
Vientiane: the national stupa, the riverside, and the quietest capital in Asia.

The Plain of Jars

Thousands of megalithic stone jars, up to three metres tall and two thousand years old, scattered across the Xieng Khouang plateau in a landscape still cratered by the most intense bombing campaign in history; three sites are cleared and visited with a guide, the old capital of Muang Khoun holds the ruins, and Phonsavan is the base. A flight from Vientiane or Luang Prabang, or a long day’s road. One or two nights, for the party that wants the history and the mystery.

The south: Pakse, Champasak and Si Phan Don

The Mekong widens toward Cambodia and the pace slows further. Pakse is the base; Wat Phou at Champasak is the pre-Angkorian Khmer temple on its hillside, the country’s other World Heritage site; the Bolaven plateau has the coffee farms and the waterfalls (Tad Fane, Tad Yuang) by car; and Si Phan Don, the Four Thousand Islands, is Don Det and Don Khon by boat — hammocks, bicycles, the Khone Phapheng falls, the last Irrawaddy dolphins in the Mekong, and the Cambodian border an hour away. A flight from Vientiane or Luang Prabang to Pakse; three or four nights; the route into or out of Cambodia.

The Mekong and the Four Thousand Islands at Si Phan Don
Si Phan Don: the Four Thousand Islands, hammocks, dolphins and the falls.

By interest

Temples and the alms round

Luang Prabang’s thirty-three temples, the dawn alms, Wat Phou in the south, Vientiane’s stupa and Wat Sisaket, and the etiquette that goes with each.

  • Dawn, quietly
  • Sarong at the gate
  • Wat Xieng Thong first
  • No flash

The Mekong and the rivers

The two-day slow boat from the Thai border, the Pak Ou caves, the Nam Ou by boat to Muang Ngoi, the Vang Vieng kayak, the Four Thousand Islands, and a sunset cruise from Luang Prabang.

  • Slow boat 2 days
  • Nam Ou upstream
  • Dolphins at Don Khon
  • Sunset on the river

The railway

The Laos–China railway has cut Vientiane to Luang Prabang from a day’s drive to two hours and Vang Vieng to ninety minutes; the scenic, air-conditioned way north.

  • Book ahead
  • Two hours to LP
  • Vang Vieng stop
  • Boten to China

Trekking and villages

Hill-tribe treks from Nong Khiaw, Luang Namtha and Muang Sing, homestays in Hmong and Khmu villages, the Bolaven plateau’s coffee farms.

  • Guides essential
  • 1–3 days
  • Homestays basic
  • Rainy season green

Food

Larb and sticky rice, or lam stew, tam mak hoong papaya salad, the Mekong’s fish, Luang Prabang’s night-market buffet, the French bread, Beerlao, and lao-lao rice spirit for the brave.

  • Sticky rice with hands
  • Fierce chilli, adjustable
  • Best bread in the region
  • Cooking classes at Tamarind

The unhurried trip

Luang Prabang for four nights with a driver, the railway to Vientiane, and nothing else: the slowest itinerary in the region and the one older travellers name first.

  • LP 4 nights
  • Railway not road
  • Driver throughout
  • Nov–Feb

Questions we get asked

How many days do you need in Laos?

Five to seven for Luang Prabang, the railway and Vientiane or Vang Vieng; ten to twelve to add the north or the south. Three nights in Luang Prabang is the minimum and most people wish they had four.

When is the best time to visit Laos?

November to February: dry, cool and clear. October and March are the shoulders; April is the hottest month and the burning season; May to September is the wet, green and quiet, with the rivers high.

Do Australians need a visa for Laos?

Yes: an e-visa from laoevisa.gov.la or a visa on arrival at the airports and main land borders, about AUD 60 for 30 days, with a passport photo. We send the link.

Is the Laos–China railway worth taking?

Yes. Vientiane to Luang Prabang in two hours through the karst, air-conditioned and comfortable, replacing a ten-hour road; Vang Vieng is a stop in the middle. Tickets sell out and are booked ahead.

Is the alms-giving ceremony still worth seeing?

Yes, done properly: from across the street, at dawn, in silence, without a flash, and without joining it unless a local instructs you. The monks are not a show, and the town asks visitors to behave as if they were guests.

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