Provence
Lavender on the Valensole plateau (late June to mid-July only), Roman Arles, the hill villages of the Luberon, and Aix's morning markets. Hire a car — this is a region the trains can't serve.
Europe · Things to Do
From the Louvre's timed-entry queues to lavender roads in the Luberon, oyster shacks in Normandy and the fastest trains in Europe — how to plan a French trip that's worth the twenty-four hours in the air.
France is the most visited country on earth, and Australians have a complicated relationship with that fact. We fly for the better part of a day to get there, we arrive jet-lagged into a city that has been photographed a billion times, and we half expect to be underwhelmed. Then we stand in front of the Winged Victory of Samothrace at nine in the morning with almost nobody else in the room, or we eat a plate of Brittany oysters at a plastic table for the price of a Brisbane coffee, and the scepticism quietly evaporates.
The trick is knowing that France is not one destination. It is a capital that behaves like a museum with a metro system, wrapped around a country of thirteen mainland regions that each run at a different speed. Paris is dense, fast, expensive and unforgiving of poor planning. Provence is slow and hot and built around lunch. Normandy is grey-green and haunted. The Alps are vertical. If you plan France as a single trip with a single rhythm, you will exhaust yourself. If you plan it as two or three deliberate chapters, you'll come home saying it was the best three weeks of your life.
This guide is written for Australians specifically — the entry rules that changed in 2026, the seasons that clash with our school holidays, the realistic cost of a euro-priced holiday when the Australian dollar is doing what it usually does, and the practical business of covering distance in a country that has spent fifty years building the best passenger rail network on the planet.
This is the section to read before you book anything, because European border rules have moved more in the last eighteen months than in the previous twenty years.
Australian passport holders still do not need a visa for France. You may stay in the Schengen Area for up to 90 days in any rolling 180-day period for tourism. That has not changed and is not changing.
What has changed is that the European Union is introducing ETIAS — the European Travel Information and Authorisation System. Starting in the fourth quarter of 2026, travellers who currently visit the EU visa-free will require an ETIAS. The fee has been confirmed at EUR 20 — roughly AUD 33 — and there is a six-month transition period, meaning strict enforcement is expected to begin around April 2027. The authorisation is valid for three years, or until your passport expires, whichever comes first.
Two warnings worth taking seriously. First, the official EU position is that no action is required from travellers yet, because the system is not live. Any website accepting ETIAS applications today is fraudulent — some have already collected passport details and card numbers from travellers who believed they were dealing with an authorised channel. The only authorisation portal will be the official EU domain. Second, if your trip includes Britain, that is a separate requirement: the UK operates its own pre-travel authorisation, the UK ETA, which is separate from ETIAS. Two countries, two systems, two applications.
The EU's biometric Entry/Exit System (EES) is now rolling out at external Schengen borders, replacing passport stamps with fingerprint and facial registration. It is not optional and it is not fast. Smartraveller currently warns that the EES is causing delays of up to four to six hours at some European airports, that travellers have missed connecting flights as a result, and that queues for the self-service kiosks can be long enough that you should be prepared to stand for an extended period.
If you're routing through a European hub — Paris CDG, Frankfurt, Amsterdam — do not book a tight connection onward. Give yourself a minimum three-hour buffer on your first Schengen entry, and consider making Paris your first arrival point rather than a transfer. Check Smartraveller for the current advice for France before you fly.
Your Australian passport must be valid for at least three months beyond your intended departure date from the Schengen Area, and generally must have been issued within the previous ten years. If your passport expires within about eight months of your return date, renew it before you book — the renewal is cheaper than the rebooking.
Australians face a scheduling problem: our long holiday is their deep winter, and our winter is their peak summer. That mismatch drives almost every decision.
| Season | Months | What it's like | Verdict |
|---|---|---|---|
| Spring | April – June | Gardens open, 15–24°C, blossom in the Loire, long light by June. Crowds build steadily. | Best all-round window. May and early June are the sweet spot. |
| Summer | July – August | Hot (35°C+ in the south), packed, priciest. Many family-run restaurants shut for les vacances. Lavender peaks in July. | Only if you're tied to Australian school holidays. Book everything months ahead. |
| Autumn | September – October | Grape harvest, warm sea in the south, thinning crowds, mushrooms and game on menus. | Arguably the single best month is September. Excellent value. |
| Winter | November – March | Cold, short days, some rural attractions closed. Christmas markets in Alsace, ski season in the Alps, Paris at its least crowded. | Great for cities and skiing, poor for countryside touring. |
One quiet advantage for Australians: our September–October shoulder lines up with France's best month, and airfares out of Brisbane, Sydney and Melbourne are usually well below the December peak. If you have flexibility, that's the booking to chase.
Four nights is the minimum that lets Paris breathe. Three is a checklist. Five or six lets you take a day out to Versailles or Giverny without feeling you've stolen time from the city itself.
The Louvre is the largest art museum on earth and it is entirely possible to have a miserable time there. Two rules fix that: book a timed slot, and go in with a plan rather than an ambition.
Australians need to know about a significant pricing change. In January 2026 the Louvre introduced dual pricing: visitors from outside the European Economic Area now pay EUR 32, up from the previous EUR 22, which remains the rate for EEA residents. Under-18s enter free regardless of nationality. As an Australian you will pay the higher rate — build EUR 32 per adult into your budget and don't be caught out at the door.
On booking: the museum requires reservations for all visitors from 1 July to 31 August 2026, and timed slots in peak season routinely sell out days ahead. The museum is closed on Tuesdays and runs late openings on Wednesday and Friday evenings. Book directly at the official Louvre ticketing site. The museum itself warns about a rise in mirror sites and advises against buying any ticket that claims to let you jump the queue, or from street vendors — do so and you may be refused entry. Every standard ticket already includes a timed entry slot; that is the skip-the-line system, and third-party "skip-the-line" upsells are really buying you a guide, not faster access.
Practical route for a single visit: enter via the Carrousel entrance rather than the Pyramid, go straight to the Denon wing for the Mona Lisa, Winged Victory and the Italian galleries, then double back through Egyptian antiquities in Sully. Two and a half to three hours. Leave before 12:30 and the day is still yours.
Book ahead, always. Adult tickets currently range from about EUR 14.80 for the lower levels to EUR 36.70 for summit access by lift, with reduced rates for children and young people. One change worth diarising: from 29 September 2026, advance reservations will also be required for stairs tickets — the old trick of turning up and climbing to the second floor on a whim is ending.
The photographer's move is not to go up at all, at least not first. Cross the river to Trocadéro at sunrise, when the light is on the east face and the terrace is nearly empty. Go up in the evening instead, when the city is lit and the hourly sparkle is worth staying for.
Notre-Dame reopened to the public in December 2024 after the fire and the restoration, and the interior stone is startlingly pale — closer to how medieval Parisians would have seen it than anything in living memory. Entry to the cathedral is free; expect a queue, and reserve a time slot through the official site if you'd rather not stand in it.
Two hundred metres away, Sainte-Chapelle is the building most first-time visitors skip and most repeat visitors rank highest. Fifteen metres of thirteenth-century stained glass on all sides, best in late-morning sun. It takes forty minutes and it will stay with you longer than the Eiffel Tower.
A converted Beaux-Arts railway station holding the greatest collection of Impressionist and Post-Impressionist painting anywhere: Monet, Renoir, Degas, Cézanne, Van Gogh's self-portrait. It is a fraction of the Louvre's size and, for many travellers, twice the pleasure. Go on a Thursday evening when it opens late and the light through the great clock face is doing its thing.
Sacré-Cœur is worth the hill for the view alone, but go early — by mid-morning the steps are a scrum and the friendship-bracelet operators are working the crowd. Behind the basilica, the village lanes around Rue Lepic and Place Dalida empty out fast.
The Marais is where to spend an aimless afternoon: Place des Vosges, the Musée Carnavalet (free, and the best museum in Paris that tourists don't visit), falafel on Rue des Rosiers, and vintage shops in the Haut Marais. Add Canal Saint-Martin on a Sunday and you'll have seen more of how Parisians actually live than most people manage in a fortnight.
The Paris Museum Pass covers more than fifty museums and monuments and runs at roughly EUR 55 for two days, EUR 70 for four and EUR 85 for six. The arithmetic is simple. If the Louvre is your only museum, skip the pass. It starts paying for itself at three to four attractions across the pass period — Louvre, Orsay, Versailles and the Orangerie in one trip and it clears comfortably. Note that it does not exempt you from security queues, and some sites still want a reservation.
Australians consistently make the same mistake — a week in Paris and a day trip. Paris is the entry point, not the country. Here is where the second half of your trip should go.
Lavender on the Valensole plateau (late June to mid-July only), Roman Arles, the hill villages of the Luberon, and Aix's morning markets. Hire a car — this is a region the trains can't serve.
Nice as a base, Èze and Menton by bus, Antibes for the Picasso museum, Monaco for the spectacle. The coastal train from Nice to Ventimiglia is one of Europe's great cheap rides.
The D-Day beaches, Bayeux and its tapestry, Mont-Saint-Michel rising out of the tidal flats, and cider country inland. Sobering, beautiful, and reachable as a two-day trip from Paris.
Renaissance châteaux at Chenonceau, Chambord and Villandry, strung along a river valley made for cycling. Two nights in Amboise or Tours covers it.
Two hours from Paris by TGV. A restored river city, Saint-Émilion's limestone cellars, oysters at Arcachon and the largest sand dune in Europe an hour away.
Colmar and Strasbourg, the wine route through Riquewihr and Eguisheim, and Europe's best Christmas markets in December. Germanic France — riesling, choucroute, storks on the rooftops.
Chamonix in summer is one of the most underrated bases in Europe: the Aiguille du Midi cable car lifts you to 3,842 metres in twenty minutes, and the Mer de Glace, Lac Blanc and the Tour du Mont Blanc trails start at your door. In winter it's a serious ski destination, and the Australian dollar goes further in the smaller Portes du Soleil resorts than in Courchevel or Val d'Isère.
Two regions Australians rarely reach and always rate. Brittany gives you walled Saint-Malo, the pink granite coast, crêperies and Celtic weather. The Dordogne gives you prehistoric cave art at Lascaux IV, honey-coloured bastide towns, walnut oil, foie gras and a river you can canoe under castles.
France's reputation for intimidating restaurants is largely undeserved and mostly a function of tourists eating in the wrong places. A few rules do most of the work.
Regionally, eat what the place does. Oysters and cider in Normandy and Brittany. Bouillabaisse in Marseille and ratatouille in Provence. Cassoulet in Toulouse. Choucroute and flammekueche in Alsace. Duck, walnut and truffle in the Dordogne. And in Lyon — France's most serious food city and a two-hour TGV from Paris — the bouchons serve offal-heavy Lyonnais cooking that will either convert you or defeat you.
The single most important thing an Australian can understand about France is that the train is not the compromise option. It is the good option.
| Route | TGV journey time | Why take the train |
|---|---|---|
| Paris → Lyon | ~2 hours | City centre to city centre; flying is slower door-to-door. |
| Paris → Bordeaux | ~2 hours | Makes a Bordeaux add-on genuinely easy. |
| Paris → Marseille | ~3 hours | Gateway to Provence and the Riviera. |
| Paris → Strasbourg | ~1 hr 50 min | Alsace in a morning. |
| Paris → Nice | ~5.5–6 hours | The one route where flying may win — but the Marseille–Nice coastal run is spectacular. |
Book early. TGV fares are yield-managed like airfares. The same Paris–Marseille seat can be EUR 39 three months out and EUR 140 three days out. Tickets typically open around four months ahead. Book direct through SNCF's official channel and you'll pay less than through resellers.
Consider a rail pass only if you're moving a lot. For two or three long hops, individual advance-purchase tickets almost always beat a pass. For a multi-country loop with frequent hops, a pass can work — we cover this properly in our European train travel guide.
Hire a car only where you need one. Provence, the Loire, Normandy, Alsace, Brittany and the Dordogne genuinely require wheels. Paris, Lyon, Bordeaux and Nice actively punish you for having them — parking is expensive and much of central Paris is a low-emission zone requiring a Crit'Air sticker on the windscreen, including for hire cars. Australians drive on the right in France, and an International Driving Permit alongside your Australian licence is the safe play; it's available from your state auto club before you leave.
Airfares from the Australian east coast to Paris typically start around AUD 1,600 return in the quiet months and climb past AUD 2,600 in the December and mid-year peaks. Flying time is 22–26 hours with one stop, usually through the Gulf or Asia.
| Style | Per person, per day | What that buys |
|---|---|---|
| Budget | EUR 90–120 | Hostel or budget hotel, bakery breakfast, market lunch, one modest dinner, public transport, one paid attraction. |
| Mid-range | EUR 180–280 | Three-star hotel or good apartment, café lunch, restaurant dinner with wine, museums, occasional taxi, TGV tickets. |
| Comfortable | EUR 350+ | Four-star hotel, guided experiences, first-class rail, serious dining. |
Paris runs 30–40 per cent above the national average; rural Normandy, the Dordogne and inland Provence run well below it. Currency is the euro. Cards are accepted almost everywhere including buses and bakeries, but carry EUR 50 in cash for rural markets, small cafés and the occasional stubborn tabac. Use an Australian travel card or a fee-free debit card and always decline the ATM's offer to convert to Australian dollars for you — that "dynamic currency conversion" is a worse rate every time.
Combine the fourteen-day route above with Provence and the Riviera, and add two nights in Chamonix or Annecy on the way east. Three weeks is the length at which France stops feeling like a highlights reel.
Confirm current entry requirements, ticketing rules and monument opening hours through official sources — the Australian Government's Smartraveller advice for France, and the official websites of the sites you plan to visit. Prices and rules quoted here were current at the time of writing and do change.
No. Australian passport holders can visit France and the wider Schengen Area visa-free for up to 90 days in any 180-day period. From the last quarter of 2026, however, Australians will need an approved ETIAS travel authorisation before departure. ETIAS costs EUR 20, is linked to your passport and is valid for three years. Applications open only through the official EU portal — no other site is authorised.
May, June, September and early October give the best balance of long daylight, mild weather and manageable crowds. July and August are hot, busy and expensive, and many family-run businesses close for the French summer holidays. April and late October are quieter and cheaper, with a real chance of cold, wet days. Australian winter — June to August — is French high summer, which is why so many Australians travel then despite the crowds.
Given the flying time from Australia, ten days is a realistic minimum and two to three weeks is far better value for the airfare. A common structure is four nights in Paris, then two regions reached by TGV — for example Provence and the Loire Valley, or Normandy and Bordeaux.
Return airfares from the east coast typically run from around AUD 1,600 in low season to AUD 2,600 or more in peak periods. On the ground, budget travellers can manage on roughly EUR 90–120 a day, mid-range travellers on EUR 180–280, and comfortable travel from EUR 350 upwards. Paris runs well above the national average; rural regions run well below.
Yes. The Louvre uses timed-entry slots and requires reservations for all visitors during the peak summer window, and popular slots sell out days or weeks ahead. Eiffel Tower lift tickets should be booked as soon as your dates are fixed, and from late September 2026 advance reservations are also required for stair tickets. Book directly through the official monument websites.
Use both. TGV high-speed trains link Paris with Lyon, Marseille, Bordeaux, Strasbourg and Nice in two to five hours and land you in the city centre, so they beat flying on most routes. Hire a car only once you reach a region where the countryside is the attraction — Provence, the Loire, Normandy, Alsace or the Dordogne — and drop it before you return to a major city.
Paris is a large, busy capital and violent crime against tourists is rare, but pickpocketing and distraction scams are common on the Metro, around Gare du Nord, at Sacré-Cœur and near the Eiffel Tower. Carry a zipped bag in front of you, keep your phone off restaurant tables, and treat any stranger asking you to sign a petition or fasten a friendship bracelet as an attempted distraction. Check Smartraveller before you travel.
No, but a little courtesy goes a long way. Opening with bonjour before you ask a question, and closing with merci, au revoir, changes the temperature of almost every interaction. English is widely spoken in Paris and tourist regions and far less so in rural areas, where a translation app earns its keep.
Cooee Tours has been moving Australians since 1974, and we're still family-owned and operated as part of the Waggie Group.
For our Australian touring we run our own vehicles out of our Brisbane base — no subcontracted mystery coach turning up on the day.
No call centre, no ticket-machine service. Ring the office and you'll speak to someone who knows the routes.
Cooee Tours has been moving Australians since 1974 — family-owned, with our own fleet and a Brisbane depot. Whether you're mapping out a French itinerary or booking your next Australian escape, our team is happy to help you plan.
Talk to Our Team