Amalfi Coast & Naples
Positano, Ravello, the Path of the Gods, and the best pizza on the planet in Naples. Pompeii and Herculaneum are an easy train ride from the city.
Europe · Things to Do
Rome's ruins, Florence's Renaissance, Venice's canals and a new access fee, the Amalfi Coast, the Dolomites and the food that changes region every ninety minutes — how to plan an Italian trip that doesn't run you into the ground.
Italy has only been a unified nation since 1861, and it shows in the best possible way. Cross an invisible line an hour outside Bologna and the pasta shape changes, the wine changes, the accent changes and the cheese on the table changes. Travel from Milan to Palermo and you may as well have changed continents. This is the single most useful thing an Australian can understand before booking: you are not visiting one destination, you are choosing which two or three Italies you have time for.
The second most useful thing is that Italy is now a country that manages its visitors. Venice charges day-trippers to enter. The Colosseum puts your name on your ticket and checks your passport at the gate. Half the historic centres in the country are ringed by cameras that will fine you for driving into them. None of this is a reason not to go — it's a reason to plan properly, because the traveller who books and reads is having a completely different holiday from the one queueing in the sun with no ticket.
This guide is written for Australians. The entry rules that shift in 2026, the seasons that clash with our holidays, the honest cost of Italy in euros, the rail network that makes flying pointless, and the driving traps that mail fines to Brisbane six months after you get home.
Australian passport holders still travel to Italy without a visa — up to 90 days in any rolling 180-day period across the Schengen Area. That isn't changing.
What is changing is ETIAS, the European Travel Information and Authorisation System, which begins operating in the fourth quarter of 2026. Australians and other visa-exempt travellers will need an approved ETIAS before departure. The fee is EUR 20 — around AUD 33 — it links electronically to your passport, and it lasts three years or until your passport expires. There's a six-month transition period, so strict enforcement is expected from around April 2027.
The scam warning is worth repeating: the EU has confirmed that no action is required from travellers yet because the portal is not live. Websites currently accepting ETIAS applications are fraudulent, and some have already harvested passport details and card numbers. Apply only through the official EU domain when it opens.
The EU's biometric Entry/Exit System is now operating at external Schengen borders, replacing passport stamps with fingerprints and facial scans. Smartraveller currently warns that EES is causing delays of up to four to six hours at some European airports, that travellers have missed flights because of it, and that queues for the self-service kiosks can be long enough that you should be prepared to stand for an extended time.
If Rome or Milan is your first Schengen entry point, don't book a domestic connection within three hours of landing. Check the current advice at Smartraveller before you fly. Your passport must be valid for at least three months beyond your planned departure from the Schengen Area.
This is the change that catches Australians out most often, because it's new, it's enforced, and it applies on the exact days most people want to visit.
Venice charges an access fee — the contributo di accesso — to enter the historic centre on selected peak days. In 2026 the scheme has expanded to 60 chargeable days, running from 3 April to 26 July, mostly Fridays through Sundays plus certain holiday weeks. The fee applies between 8.30am and 4pm on those days.
| Situation | What you pay | What you must do |
|---|---|---|
| Day-tripper, registered 4+ days ahead | EUR 5 per person | Register online, carry the QR code |
| Day-tripper, late registration | EUR 10 per person | Register online, carry the QR code |
| Staying overnight in Venice | Nothing (you pay the separate lodging tax instead) | Still must register and carry an exemption QR code |
| Under 14 | Exempt | Registration still advisable |
| Arriving after 4pm | Nothing | No action required |
Inspectors check QR codes at key entry points — Santa Lucia station, bus terminals, water transport stops — and conduct random checks in the historic centre. Fines run from EUR 50 to EUR 300 on top of the fee itself. Being on an organised excursion does not automatically exempt you.
Two things worth knowing. First, the fee applies only to the historic centre, not to the lagoon islands — Lido, Murano, Burano and Torcello are outside it. Second, the fee window closes at 4pm, which means an afternoon-and-evening visit costs nothing and gives you Venice at its most beautiful and least crowded. If your dates are flexible, that's the play.
Stay overnight. Venice after the day-trippers leave — and before they arrive — is one of the great experiences in Europe, and you're exempt from the fee. Just remember you still have to register for the exemption QR code. Register at the official City of Venice portal, and treat any other site charging a "processing fee" as a scam.
Four nights minimum. Rome is a city where the walking is the point, and where every second attraction now runs on timed entry.
The standard ticket is EUR 18 and it automatically includes the Roman Forum and Palatine Hill — you do not need a separate ticket, and plenty of visitors buy one anyway. The Full Experience ticket at EUR 24 adds the arena floor and additional restricted areas, and standing on the arena looking up at the tiers is genuinely a different experience from looking down at it. It's also almost impossible to get: official Full Experience allocations sell out within minutes.
Two rules that catch Australians. First, tickets are personalised — every visitor's name must be entered at booking, and valid photo ID is checked at the gate. A ticket bought in someone else's name is a ticket you can't use. Second, the official site releases tickets only 30 days before the visit date, so set a calendar reminder rather than trying to book six months out and concluding it's sold out.
Entry is free on the first Sunday of each month, but arena and underground access aren't available on free days and the queues are punishing. Skip it.
Around 30,000 people a day pass through the Vatican Museums, and in summer the queue wraps around the walls for two to three hours in full sun. Do not join it. The standard adult ticket is EUR 20 on-site or EUR 25 online (the EUR 5 is the presale booking fee), and the online timed ticket is the best twenty-five euros you'll spend in Rome.
Good news for 2026: the restoration of Michelangelo's Last Judgment on the Sistine Chapel's altar wall was completed on 26 March 2026, the scaffolding is down, and the full Michelangelo programme — the ceiling, the Creation of Adam and the Last Judgment — is visible again.
Timing strategy: take the earliest slot available and you'll reach the Sistine Chapel before the tour groups compress it. Tuesday and Thursday are the calmest weekdays. Avoid Wednesday, when the Papal Audience swells the crowds, and note the Museums are closed on Sundays except the last Sunday of the month, when entry is free (and consequently the most crowded day of the month). There are also Friday evening openings in the warmer months. Dress code is enforced: shoulders and knees covered, no exceptions, and no photography inside the Sistine Chapel.
Florence is small — you can walk it end to end in forty minutes — and it holds more Renaissance art per square metre than anywhere on earth. Three nights is right.
The Uffizi Gallery is the headline: Botticelli's Birth of Venus and Primavera, Leonardo, Michelangelo, Caravaggio. Timed entry, closed Mondays, and worth booking the first slot of the day. The Accademia holds Michelangelo's David — a twenty-minute visit for a statue that justifies every one of them. The Duomo complex is a separate ticket, and climbing Brunelleschi's dome (463 steps, no lift, not for the claustrophobic) puts you eye-to-eye with the frescoed interior of the cupola before you emerge on the roof of Florence.
Go up to Piazzale Michelangelo at sunset with a bottle of wine and no plan. It's the view on every postcard and it earns it.
This is where you hire a car — but park outside the walls of every town you visit (see the ZTL warning below). Siena is the great medieval rival, its shell-shaped Piazza del Campo one of the finest public spaces in Europe. San Gimignano bristles with medieval tower houses. The Val d'Orcia is the landscape you already have in your head: cypress avenues, hilltop farmhouses, Pienza and Montalcino, and Brunello in the glass. Chianti sits between Florence and Siena and is best done slowly, on back roads, with a designated driver.
Positano, Ravello, the Path of the Gods, and the best pizza on the planet in Naples. Pompeii and Herculaneum are an easy train ride from the city.
Five cliff villages linked by trains and coastal footpaths. Base in Levanto or Monterosso, walk the trails early, and eat pesto where it was invented.
Vertical limestone, alpine huts serving strudel and speck, and some of the best day-walking in Europe. Half Italian, half Austrian, entirely spectacular.
Varenna and Bellagio by ferry, villa gardens, and mountains falling straight into deep water. An hour from Milan and a world away.
The heel of the boot: trulli houses in Alberobello, baroque Lecce, olive groves, empty beaches and prices that still feel like the old Italy.
Greek temples at Agrigento, mosaics at Monreale, Etna smoking above Catania, and street food in Palermo. A trip in its own right, not an add-on.
Italy is the easiest country in Europe to eat well in and the easiest to eat badly in, and the difference comes down to a handful of habits.
Italy's high-speed network is superb. Frecciarossa (Trenitalia) and Italo run competing services at up to 300km/h between the major cities, station to station, no airport transfers, no baggage drama.
| Route | High-speed time | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Rome → Florence | ~1 hr 30 min | The single best-value train in Italy. |
| Florence → Venice | ~2 hours | Arrive at Santa Lucia, right on the Grand Canal. |
| Rome → Naples | ~1 hr 10 min | Makes Pompeii a comfortable day trip from Rome. |
| Milan → Rome | ~3 hours | Faster than flying, door to door. |
| Rome → Bologna | ~2 hours | Worth a stop for the food alone. |
Book early. High-speed fares are dynamic. Rome–Florence can be EUR 20 booked ahead and EUR 60 on the day. Validate regional (non-high-speed) tickets in the platform machines before boarding — the fine for an unvalidated regional ticket is real and unsympathetic.
A ZTL (zona a traffico limitato) is a restricted-traffic zone covering the historic centre of almost every Italian city and town. Cameras photograph every unauthorised vehicle that enters and issue an automatic fine. Your hire car company pays it, then charges you — often months later, with an administration fee attached. Australians routinely open envelopes in Brisbane six months after they've flown home.
Never drive into a historic centre. Park in a signposted car park outside the walls and walk in. If your hotel is inside a ZTL, it may be able to register your plate — but you must ask before you drive in, not after. A GPS route is not permission.
Hire a car only for Tuscany, Umbria, Puglia, Sicily and the Dolomites, where the countryside is the destination. Italians drive on the right. Carry an International Driving Permit alongside your Australian licence — your state auto club issues these before you leave, and Italian police do ask for them. Autostrada tolls are collected by ticket; keep the ticket you take at entry or you'll pay the maximum.
Return airfares from the east coast to Rome or Milan typically run from about AUD 1,600 in the quiet months to AUD 2,600 and beyond in December and mid-year peaks, with a flying time of 22 to 26 hours via one stop.
| Style | Per person, per day | What that buys |
|---|---|---|
| Budget | EUR 80–110 | Hostel or budget hotel, bar breakfast, market lunch, pizza dinner, public transport, one paid site. |
| Mid-range | EUR 170–260 | Three-star hotel or apartment, trattoria dinners with wine, museums, high-speed rail, the occasional taxi. |
| Comfortable | EUR 350+ | Four-star hotel, private guides, first-class rail, serious dining and a car for the countryside. |
Rome, Florence, Venice and Milan run well above the national average; Puglia, Sicily and Umbria run well below it. A per-night tassa di soggiorno (tourist tax) of roughly EUR 1–7 per person is charged by accommodation across Italy and is often collected in cash at check-out. Cards are widely accepted, but carry EUR 50 in cash — small trattorias, market stalls and rural bars still prefer it. Always decline the ATM's offer to bill you in Australian dollars.
Add the Dolomites (three nights out of Bolzano or Cortina) and either Puglia or Sicily to the fourteen-day route. Three weeks is when Italy stops being a checklist and starts being a country.
Confirm current entry rules, the Venice access fee calendar and monument ticketing through official sources — Smartraveller, the City of Venice access fee portal, and the official ticketing sites for the Colosseum and Vatican Museums. Prices and rules quoted here were current at the time of writing and do change.
No. Australian passport holders can visit Italy visa-free for up to 90 days in any 180-day period as part of the Schengen Area. From the fourth quarter of 2026, Australians will need an approved ETIAS travel authorisation before departure. It costs EUR 20, links to your passport and lasts three years. Apply only through the official EU portal — no other website is authorised.
Venice charges a day-tripper access fee to enter the historic centre on 60 peak days in 2026, running 3 April to 26 July, mostly Fridays to Sundays, between 8.30am and 4pm. It costs EUR 5 if you register more than four days ahead and EUR 10 for late bookings, and applies to visitors aged 14 and over. Staying overnight exempts you from paying — but you must still register and carry the QR code. Fines run from EUR 50 to EUR 300.
Yes. Colosseum tickets are personalised — every visitor's name goes on the ticket and photo ID is checked at the gate — and the official site releases inventory only 30 days ahead, so peak slots go quickly. The Vatican Museums see around 30,000 visitors a day and the queue can run two to three hours in summer, so a timed online ticket is essential. Book both through the official ticketing sites.
The standard ticket is EUR 18 and automatically includes the Roman Forum and Palatine Hill — no separate ticket needed. The Full Experience ticket at EUR 24 adds the arena floor and additional restricted areas, but sells out extremely fast. Entry is free on the first Sunday of each month, though arena and underground access aren't available on free days and queues are long.
A ZTL — zona a traffico limitato — is a restricted traffic zone covering the historic centre of most Italian cities and towns. Cameras photograph every vehicle entering without a permit and issue an automatic fine. Hire car companies pass these on months later with an administration fee attached, and Australians routinely receive them long after flying home. Never drive into a historic centre — park outside the walls and walk in.
Late April to early June, and mid-September to October — warm weather, long light, manageable crowds. July and August are brutally hot in Rome and the south, and many Italian businesses close for ferragosto in August. Winter suits Rome, Florence and the Dolomites ski fields, but the Cinque Terre and Amalfi Coast largely shut down.
Ten days is a workable minimum for Rome, Florence and Venice. Two weeks lets you add Tuscany or the Amalfi Coast without rushing. Three weeks is what the country deserves given the flight from Australia. Resist adding a fourth or fifth city — the hours lost to packing, stations and check-ins are hours you don't spend in Italy.
For the major cities, yes. High-speed Frecciarossa and Italo services link Rome, Florence, Bologna, Milan, Venice and Naples at up to 300km/h, city centre to city centre. Rome to Florence is about 90 minutes; Florence to Venice around two hours. Book ahead for the cheapest fares. Hire a car only for the countryside — Tuscany, Umbria, Puglia, the Dolomites — and never for the cities.
Cooee Tours has been moving Australians since 1974, and we're still family-owned and operated as part of the Waggie Group.
For our Australian touring we run our own vehicles out of our Brisbane base — no subcontracted mystery coach turning up on the day.
No call centre, no ticket-machine service. Ring the office and you'll speak to someone who knows the routes.
Cooee Tours has been moving Australians since 1974 — family-owned, with our own fleet and a Brisbane depot. Whether you're mapping out an Italian itinerary or booking your next Australian escape, our team is happy to help you plan.
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