The Atherton Tablelands
Climb the range behind Cairns and the tropics turn cool and green. The Atherton Tablelands are a fertile highland of waterfalls, crater lakes, giant fig trees and farm produce — coffee plantations, dairy farms, chocolate makers and distilleries — spread across rolling country towns. It's the perfect counterpoint to the reef: a day (or two) of waterfalls, swimming holes and long lunches an hour or so from the coast.
The waterfall circuit & crater lakes
The star is the Millaa Millaa waterfall circuit, a ~15 km loop linking three beautiful falls — Millaa Millaa (with its swimming hole, said to be Australia's most photographed), Zillie and Ellinjaa. Nearby, Crater Lakes National Park holds two volcanic lakes: Lake Eacham, a clear freshwater swimming spot, and Lake Barrine, ringed by ancient kauri pines with a rainforest walk and teahouse.
Fig trees, food & Paronella Park
Beyond the water, the Tablelands are full of character. Seek out the giant Curtain Fig at Yungaburra and the Cathedral Fig near Lake Tinaroo — vast strangler figs centuries old. Follow the food trail for local coffee, cheese, chocolate and tropical fruit. And don't miss Paronella Park, the storybook Spanish castle and gardens at Mena Creek, magical on a night tour.
The Tablelands: your questions
The Tablelands are a cool, green highland behind Cairns famous for waterfalls (the Millaa Millaa waterfall circuit), crater lakes (Lake Eacham and Lake Barrine), giant strangler fig trees, and rich produce — coffee, cheese, chocolate, tropical fruit and craft distilleries. It's a beautiful contrast to the coast, about an hour to 90 minutes' drive up from Cairns.
A ~15 km loop near the town of Millaa Millaa taking in three photogenic falls: Millaa Millaa Falls (often called Australia's most photographed waterfall, with a swimming hole), Zillie Falls and Ellinjaa Falls. It's an easy, scenic drive with short walks to each — a highlight of any Tablelands day.
Yes — Lake Eacham, a beautiful volcanic crater lake in Crater Lakes National Park, is a popular freshwater swimming spot with a pontoon and picnic areas. Lake Barrine nearby is better known for its ancient kauri pines, rainforest walk, teahouse and lake cruises. Both are croc-free freshwater crater lakes, unlike the coastal rivers.
A full day covers the highlights — the waterfall circuit, a crater lake, a giant fig tree and a produce stop or two. With more time, the Tablelands reward an overnight: there's Paronella Park, the Cathedral and Curtain Fig trees, coffee and cheese trails, and quiet country towns like Yungaburra and Atherton.
Paronella Park, at Mena Creek south of the Tablelands, is a whimsical Spanish-style castle and garden built by José Paronella in the 1930s, now heritage-listed and run with day and atmospheric night tours. Set among rainforest and a waterfall, it's one of Tropical North Queensland's most unusual attractions.